2005 Andrew Geoffrey Diamond Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon

When I was the sommelier in a great steakhouse, I bought every vintage of Andrew Geoffrey Cabernet released. I have an inordinate fondness for Diamond Mountain Cabernet, and the wines of Andrew Geoffrey are surely among the best in the appellation. But, inexcusably, I'd never been to the actual vineyard until recently; Lot18 gave me the perfect excuse to see if my Prius goes uphill.

I met owner Peter Thompson (the winery is named for his two sons) at the vineyard almost 2,000 feet above the Napa Valley floor. I've known Peter for a long time, and I was trading on that relationship to try and secure some of his "brilliant" – in Robert Parker's words – Cabernet for Lot18. I'm pleased to have succeeded.

Peter's 14-acre vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, hardy varieties that thrive in the volcanic soils of Diamond Mountain. Diamond Mountain Cabernets are prized among wine collectors for their depth, structure and astonishing longevity. You can drink the 2005 Andrew Geoffrey now, or you can wait 20 years to pop the cork. It will knock you out no matter when you consume it.

Tasting Note
Stop a moment and ponder the saturated, purple color of this beauty. The color is alive and vibrant. Better yet, behold its hue in a decanter, as the wine needs time to reveal itself. Every hour it breathes, another bold, intense luscious layer surfaces. I loved the nose for its black currant and cassis aromas mixed with wildflowers and minerality. Upon sniffing it, I had that Proustian moment of being transported back to that mountaintop vineyard.

But once I put the wine in my mouth, I was blown away. Sweet black currant, a luscious mouthfeel, sweet oak, a touch of tobacco leaf and an astonishingly long finish all make drinking this wine a tremendous experience. I was astounded when Peter told me the wine is aged in 80 percent new French oak. You'd never know it. The intensity of Andrew Geoffrey's Diamond Mountain fruit soaks up that new oak effortlessly. Truly, this is majestic and magnificent Cabernet.

—Ron Washam

Ron Washam has more than 30 years’ experience in the wine business, including 19 years as a sommelier in Los Angeles where the California Restaurant Writers Association twice named him Sommelier of the Year. He is also a professional wine judge at prestigious wine competitions such as the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the Sonoma Harvest Fair and the San Francisco International Wine Competition.